Walk date – 30th April 2025
Distance – 6 miles
Weather – sunny, very warm, occasional light breeze, extremely hazy
The sunshine was already giving rise to a very warm morning despite the thin haze of ‘artificial’ cloud that was already in the sky, and being added to by the chemtrail ‘planes which were out in abundance today. We have noticed an increase in that particular activity since the recent government announcement that it had decided to begin geo-engineering experiments, as if we hadn’t noticed that it has been happening for years now. Maybe that decision has been made because too many people know that it is happening so they’ve decided to ‘come clean’ about it all, although the government website still refers to them as ‘contrails’ which are quite different to what is actually being sprayed on the earth. There’s no point in my ranting about it because they’ll carry on doing it anyway and none of the earth’s inhabitants have any choice about breathing in whatever is in the air. I have only one word for them and although I won’t repeat it here, it begins with B, ends with S and has six other letters between them. The answer will no doubt come easily to readers.
Having got that off my chest let’s turn to today’s walk instead. In addition to being a very warm day there was little by way of any breeze although we did get the occasional movement of air from time to time which was more than welcome. It was a perfect spring day for being out on the fells but not such a good day for views and long distance photography as there was too much haze to see anything clearly. Nevertheless we had an enjoyable walk across dry ground over a fell that we haven’t visited for quite a few years.
Route
Kirkstone Pass – St Raven’s Edge – Pike How – Stony Cove Pike – Caudale Head – Atkinson Memorial – Pike How – St Ravem’s Edge – Kirkstone Pass
We started out up the path from the Kirkstone Pass Inn but we hadn’t walked very far when J decided to go back to the car park and check whether he had locked the car or not. He had locked it as things turned out but while I was waiting for him to return I took the above shot of our first objective, St Raven’s Edge. Too many shadows to see it very clearly but the best that could be obtained at the time as the bright sun was just behind it and thus casting many shadows.
I also took this one looking down the Kirkstone Pass towards Place Fell, as can be seen the long distance views were very indistinct today.
Once J rejoined me we set off up the path, negotiated the couple of short scrambles and made our way over to the huge pile of stones which forms the summit cairn. Looks as though someone with artistic tendencies has had a go at creating a more interesting stone sculpture on the top of it.
Once we reached the cairn I decided that a change of clothing was necessary as I was too warm to continue any further in the 3/4 cropped trousers I was wearing. I had packed my shorts just in case that might turn out to be the case so those went on instead. Instant bliss! J did not have his shorts with him so had to settle for rolled up trouser bottoms instead. The above shot was taken after my change of clothing and looks south towards Wansfell Pike.
Setting off along the path leading up to Stony Cove Pike and as we got closer to the rocky hump ahead of us we could hear a voice. It turned out to be a chap who, by the time we reached it, was standing on the very top of the hump and talking to someone on his phone. Perhaps that was the only place he could get a good enough phone signal.
The murky silhouette of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke behind the craggy hills above Woundale which are occupying the middle foreground.
We start to drop down from St Raven’s Edge while wondering if all the usual soggy, squelchy spots have benefitted from the dry spell we are still having. But …..
….. we needn’t have even considered it. Even this bit was drying out very nicely and we only used the stepping stones because they were there. We could just as easily hopped over from one side to the other as the surrounding mud was mostly quite firm.
J striding out along the path and heading towards the two rocky bumps on the skyline. I think the one on the left is Pike How which would mean that the one over on the right is High Bull Crag. Don’t quote me on that though because this place is full of both named and nameless humps and bumps so I may be completely wrong.
A look over to Red Screes as we follow the path alongside the wall. A little further along we met a solo walker, a young woman from New Zealand, who was going to go up Red Screes when she reached the Kirkstone Pass. She mentioned that with the weather being so warm she wasn’t looking forward to it.
We continued along the rising path which eventually begins to curve around towards Stony Cove Pike. J looks round to see what I’m up to. The wall across the top has collapsed in many places so there is no problem crossing it if walkers want to go in a different direction.
Another view of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke, with Sallows and Sour Howes behind them in the distance over to the right. Also to the right of the shot and just above the expanse of rough grass, I think that the indistinct rounded hump might well be the top of Troutbeck Tongue.
The summit cairn on Stony Cove Pike together with a view of the beacon on Thornthwaite Crag. A solo male walker also arrived at the summit shortly after I took the photo. He used the same path as we had to reach this point but I think he must have come from the Atkinson Memorial direction as we had seen no-one behind us on the path from St Raven’s Edge. He eventually took to the descent path going down Thresthwaite Mouth so maybe he was heading for Thornthwaite Crag and the beacon.
Across the col between Thornthwaite Crag and Gray Crag was this view of High Street and …..
….. moving the camera a little to my left there is a view of Gray Crag across the middle foreground. Behind that the slope of High Street begins to meet up with the Straits of Riggindale which in turn rises up towards High Raise and Kidsty Pike.
A little further to the left shows the Hartsop end of Gray Crag above which Rest Dodd can be seen, and to the right of Rest Dodd is Loadpot Hill.
Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke appear once again as I turned towards the south west. Any views beyond these three were not worth photographing.
In the hope that things might look a little less murky we started off down the path towards Hartsop Dodd which is the hump which can be seen just beyond the tarns. Coming towards us was a group of four young women who eventually stopped and waited for the fifth member of their group who was some distance behind them. It wouldn’t be too wild a guess to assume that the climb up Hartsop Dodd, via its very steep northern path, would have slowed her down considerably. At least her four companions had the sense to wait for her to catch up with them as its never a good idea to allow any member of a group to get too far behind. Anything might happen to the last one and the front ones wouldn’t know about it at all so it makes sense to keep together.
As the surrounding views from about halfway down the path were just as dismal as those we had already seen we decided not to bother going on any further so we turned around at this point and returned to the cross wall between Caudale Head and Stony Cove Pike. If you’d like to see what the surrounding views are from the top of Hartsop Dodd take a look at our walk of 16th May 2018 when we did more or less the same walk.
I took a few shots of the views from the spot on the path where we turned around. This one looks across Hartsop above How towards Saint Sunday Crag, the Helvellyn group and The Dodds …..
….. this is looking beyond the mine area on Caudale Moor towards Dove Crag, Hart Crag and Fairfield, with a small section of the end of the Helvellyn range over on the right …..
….. and this is looking across to Place Fell and Rest Dodd. None of them were very distinct which was very disappointing. Never mind, there’s a sunny and windless day to enjoy, which we have been looking forward to since autumn last year, so we’d best get on with it.
Back at the cross wall where I took a look over the wall to see what Wansfell and Windermere had to offer, which was not very much in the long distance views department.
We began to make our way along the path by the cross wall over to the big stone cairn at Caudale Head passing this nameless tarn along the way.
As I was taking the above shot of the tarn from this angle the group of girls we had met coming up the path from Hartsop Dodd earlier were just passing by us, busy chattering to one another and barely noticing us at all. I began to wonder why they would leave that path and go over to the stone cairn on Caudale Head as we were doing. I came up with various possibilities none of which seemed sensible to me, but then I’m not a nineteen year old lass out for the day with a group of mates. We carried on over to the summit cairn on Caudale Head where, just as in 2018, I omitted to take a photo of the large cairn. One of these days I will remember!
From the cairn on Caudale Head we made our way over to the Atkinson Memorial with its wooden cross and its two inscriptions carved on slates …..
….. this one, to the memory of Mark Atkinson …..
….. and this one dedicated to his son William. Our walk of 30th June 2016 has a transcript of both memorial plates and some more information so I won’t repeat it here.
The Atkinson memorial with a backdrop of the fells at the northern end of the Fairield Horseshoe plus the Helvellyn group.
The memorial again, this time with a view of the Kirkstone Pass Inn which the Atkinson family used to run.
We returned to the wall junction and had a coffee break before making our way back down again. The views were nothing to write home about but here’s what we were looking at while we had our break. Above is the path beside the wall leading back down to St Raven’s Edge, behind which is Wansfell and Lake Windermere …..
….. straight across is Red Screes …..
….. and in the very hazy distance we had a skyline view of Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, the Scafells and Great End. In front of them is the long ridge running down from Dove Crag to High Pike (the easiest mile in Lakeland according to AW), and in front of that is the northern slope of Red Screes dropping down to Middle Dodd.
After our break we crossed back over the wall and began our trek back to St Raven’s Edge. The name John Bell’s Banner is intriguing and a bit of internet research revealed a little further information. John Bell was once a clergyman in Ambleside and the word ‘banner’ has an old usage meaning ‘boundary’. On our route map the words ‘John Bell’s Banner’ appear below the words ‘Stony Cove Pike’ suggesting that the two are one and the same. But when consulting the larger OL5 1:25 map the wording of ‘John Bell’s Banner’ appears on the western side of this wall. In other words on the right as you look at the above photo. Perhaps the wall in the above shot marks the boundary or “banner” of John Bell’s parish, hence the name ‘John Bell’s Banner’. The Atkinson Memorial is also placed on the west side of the wall which suggests that at the time of the memorial’s construction the Atkinson family considered themselves to be part of the Ambleside parish.
On the way down I took a look over the rough terrain to our left to show the nature of the smaller fells above Woundale and the Troutbeck valley. It mostly consists of rough, soggy grassland with patches of peat hags here and there.
One of the traditionally soggier sections on this path but there were no problems today mostly due to the dry weather but also thanks to the many repairs which seem to have taken place since we were last up here. The dryness has contributed to an abundance of ‘unofficial’ grassy paths appearing. Created by walkers who see no need to use a pitched, and occasionally awkwardly placed stones, when the ground beside them is bone dry.
Climbing up the hill towards the crags of rocks where we saw the man on the phone when we started out earlier.
The summit cairn on St Raven’s Edge appears as we round the rocky crags and after a short walk …..
….. we are back on the summit area with a somewhat better view of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke than we had earlier. ….
….. although Sallows and Sour Howes being a little further away are still somewhat indistinct.
A look down at the Kirkstone Pass Inn and the twists and turns of the road (known as The Struggle) leading down to Ambleside as we cross the summit area and head towards the path leading us back down.
The final shot of today’s walk is of the Kirkstone Pass Inn where a great deal of renovation is taking place. The inn was put up for sale in 2021 and sold in 2022 but I have not been able to find out anything more than that. The pub signage remains on the external wall and over the porch, just beside the van in the above shot, but that may only be a recognition of its former life rather than a sign that it will continue as a pub. The location of the building, at the top of the pass, right beside a main road and bus route, and in a very windy position, would suggest that it probably isn’t going to be a private residence since who in their right mind would plan to live in such an inhospitable spot. No planning application for a change of use has been submitted which rules out conversion into holiday lets or similar so perhaps it will continue operating as an inn once the renovations are complete. We’ll just have to wait and see. A great weather day for a change although we could have done without the thick haze. The weather forecasters had predicted that visibility today would be excellent!